Pahalgam-Kashmir Kaleidoscope: Beauty, adventure, chaos and resilence.
Pahalgam-Kashmir Kaleidoscope: Beauty, Adventure, Chaos, and Resilience
Our planned Kashmir adventure promised breathtaking landscapes, but the reality delivered so much more – an intense tapestry woven with stunning beauty, heart-pounding adventure, moments of genuine fear, unexpected kindness, and profound reflections. This is the story of our first seven days, a journey that tested our limits and deepened our perspectives.
Day 0: The Long Haul to Paradise
The anticipation was high as we began our journey from Bangalore, fueled by a good airport dinner in the lounge. Kids love lounge spread. We travelled to Ahmedabad from bangalore flight was at 1am.
Our excitement soon met the reality of travel fatigue. Landing in Ahmedabad around 3 AM for a nearly 5-hour layover without comfortable rest spots was draining; sleep felt like a distant dream. The airport lounge at 5 AM was a welcome refuge, offering a fantastic breakfast spread that lifted our spirits before the final 8 AM flight to Srinagar – a flight where we gratefully managed to catch some sleep, dreaming of the valley ahead.
Day 1: Srinagar's Gentle Introduction - Tulips, Lakes, and Houseboat Charms
Colourful flowers : Touching down in Srinagar around 10:10 AM, the crisp air was invigorating! We dove straight into the colours, heading directly to the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden. Arriving near noon, the sheer scale and vibrancy were overwhelming – a dazzling welcome. As soon as we started towards having lunch it rained hard. Fortunate enough to not get the same rain while we were in garden.
Wonderful lunch: Hunger led us to Nathu Sweets for lunch, which turned out to be "exceptionally good," exceeding all expectations. It was raining hard outside for 15 mins and then became dark cloudy
Dal Lake: Fully satisfied with lunch, we made our way to Dal Lake for our first unique stay – the Anarkali Group of Houseboat. Reaching it via Shikara felt wonderfully traditional, though there was a moment's confusion – check in first, or enjoy the lake? Not sure whether it will further rain or windy etc. We opted to settle in house boat first, a choice blessed by fortune. Got to know from friends a very minor earthquake greeted us in srinagar. As we were in Houseboat we didn't realise the earthquake.
| Market in Daal Lake |
Pleasent Shikara ride: Suddenly weather improved and we took Shikara ride around 4 PM unfolded under perfect, glorious weather. Gliding past floating markets, the gentle lap of water against the boat, sipping fragrant Kesar tea – it felt utterly magical, serene. Later, as twilight deepened, rain began to fall.
| Fun in Houseboat |
Fun in houseboat: Tucked inside our cozy houseboat, listening to the rhythmic drumming on the roof, sharing hot pakoras and tea, felt incredibly peaceful. The day concluded with laughter and camaraderie over a fun game of Dumb Charades.
Day 2: Into the Valleys - Pahalgam & Baisaran's Muddy Initiation
Entry into pahalgam: An early start fueled by breakfast saw us departing at 9 AM for Pahalgam, the 'Valley of Shepherds'. The journey was picturesque, dotted with stops at lush apple orchards, the curious Kashmir bat village, vibrant saffron farms, and the imposing, ancient Martand Sun Temple.
| Martand Temple |
We decided to see Apple Orchids from outside and not get down as it wasn't apple season. But on the way we stopped at few scenic places (not known tourist spots) and took photos.
We had a wonderful photo shoot along bank riding on horse in the river. With spirit high eager to see more we reached Pahalgam. As we haven't stoppped at apple orchids we saved some time hence reached Pahalgam earlier than scheduled.
After grabbing delicious lunch at dana pani, we braced ourselves for the Baisaran Valley pony ride. In actual schedule, Baisaran was scheduled for the next day. But as we skipped apple orchids we had time for Baisaran hence proceeded for the ride. We weren't aware that this decision is going to be life saving
| Pony Ride at Baisaran |
Adventurous pony ride: Actually this ride is scheduled next day but we preponed because we had time. "Adventurous" barely scratches the surface! The steep, muddy tracks demanded constant balance, a skill we struggled to master initially.
| Mud all over after pony ride to Baisaran |
There were heart-stopping moments when both Bharati and Viaan slipped from their horses as they sank into the mud – thankfully, relief washed over us as they emerged shaken but unharmed. But reaching the top was worth it!
| Baisaran |
The meadow known as "Mini Switzerland" truly is a perfect location to just relax and enjoy.
| Zipline at Baisaran |
The kids had a blast trying out the zipline, while we soaked in the atmosphere and took countless photos of the beautiful, expansive meadows. Seeing the kids run freely in that beautiful, peaceful expanse, we had no inkling then of the terrible events that would unfold so close to this very spot just two days later. The ride back down felt slightly easier as we got the hang of balancing, but we still returned thoroughly exhausted, sore, and caked in mud – unforgettable memories from Baisaran!
Day 3: Pahalgam Continues - A Trio of Valleys Amidst Crowds and Clouds
A slightly gentler start today (7:30 AM wake-up), followed by breakfast and a refreshing river walk with photos.
| Car Accident |
Setting off around 10 AM a minor car accident happened between our car and an IRAN based tourist van. Our car window shattered and other van mirror broke (a minor car mirror breakage adding a little drama!) Fight/argument continued between drivers for few mins. And then we settled in another cab explored the Aru, Betaab, and Chandanwari valleys. The beauty was undeniable, but so were the crowds and narrow roads. Chandanwari felt a bit underwhelming; the snow wasn't pristine, and a chill in the air demanded jackets (though the kids didn't mind, happily slurping Maggi!).
| Betaab Valley |
Betaab Valley, however, stole our hearts – truly spectacular. Popcorn and ice cream there felt like a well-deserved treat. We arrived back in Pahalgam around 3:40 PM, ravenous after skipping lunch, just as the skies opened up. Perfect timing to avoid a drenching! The rain scuttled our pizza plans at pahalgam, but ordering pakoras and sandwiches at the hotel felt like the perfect cozy alternative. After resting our weary limbs, we gathered for dinner, the kids miraculously still full of energy and playing happily. Just before going to sleep we got to know next day sinthan top is cancelled because of heavy snowfall. Anyway we thought we will spend time in some other spots in and around pahalgam. If we wouldn't have completed Baisaran on first day we would have ended up deciding to go to Baisaran instead of Sinthan Top.
Day 4: Sinthan Top's Snowy Joy & Pahalgam's Painful Lockdown
Funfilled sinthan top: What a day of contrasts! We awoke unsure if Sinthan Top was accessible, but luck was with us – the road was open!
The journey up was rewarded with amazing snowy vistas at Sinthan Top. We embraced our inner children, riding 'surfing pads' pulled by hardworking locals and gleefully sliding down the slopes – pure, unadulterated fun! Locals are so hardworking and helpful.
| Snow Skating |
They pulled surfing pads up for just 300 rupees. So much of hard work for little money. They took our photos made sure that we are happy.
We did slide on snow, so much fun sliding down
| Sinthan Top |
We saw a man arrive, his shirt stained with blood – he’d rushed family friends from the shootout area to the hospital. Locals vehemently denied terrorism or Pakistan's involvement, blaming conspiracies, feeling caught between two nations. Some how in the conversations we see for them both India and pakisthan is same. They repeatedly making statement "why are we being targeted by all these nations. Why these people are making us scape goat". According to me , India to succeed here in kashmir we need to integrate them more with India. Make them feel part of country. People here are so nice. We didnt do enough to make them feel home.
Amidst their fear, Kashmiri's hospitality shone through: "You don't worry, we are here to protect you... you are our guests," one offered, even suggesting shelter and a campfire. Lot of calls from friends and family to come back home. Pressure from home to cancel was slowly building. We understood that this is not like any other incident, We desperately waiting to reach hotel. Home minister is coming to visit place we are totally unsure what is happening. We are yet to get grasp of the damage, Incident is so huge that our imagination is still catching up.
By 8 PM, we made a final, desperate attempt, walking a kilometer with other stranded drivers to plead with the commanding officer. He listened, but the answer was absolute – the situation was too volatile; entry was impossible. The anger and frustration of the drivers arguing with the officer faded into our own feeling of helplessness. Officer was visibly irritated with locals because of local drivers statement “lets aggitate”. Officer became angry and told those locals to get lost. Somehow there doesnt seems to be happy connection between locals and army. Officer called us to side and told us situation is bad hence go somewhere else..helplessly we walked back to the cab. Understandably such an incident happened in the same valley, they cant allow us in. The only option left was to return to Srinagar. Our tour operator (nature wings) , thankfully, arranged an emergency hotel and promised our luggage would follow. We drove back late, under a cloud of worry, leaving Pahalgam behind. On the way we are checking options in hand, flight availability, road route etc. Not many options in hand flight are not available and Roads are blocked because of flash flood. We were not sure about the quality of accomodation as well at srinagar, our tour operator did a great job to arrange a decent accomodation. we were absolutely not sure what should be our next action, how next day is going to be. we went to sleep, postponing our worry to the next day.
Day 5: Srinagar Under Bandh, Decisions, and Snowy Gulmarg
We woke in Srinagar to a city silenced by a Kashmir Bandh. Shops were shuttered. Finding breakfast meant searching for a small, open joint for parathas. Some in our group were feeling unwell (a bout of food poisoning). Adding to the complex mix of emotions, I received a supportive call from my Employer, offering assistance, including evacuation – a appreciated gesture of goodwill. This gave family much required assurance that help is just a call away.
| people accumulated to protest against attack |
Confused, combined with the Bandh, the unsettling news reports predicting dire scenarios (war, communal attacks), and intense pressure from worried families back home, led to difficult discussions within our group. To add to the trouble roadway back to mainland is also blocked because of flash flood and landslide. Opinions were divided: cut the trip short for safety, or stay? Logically for us with such a warm hearted locals it was appearing safe. Also government is taking relevant action. We also internally felt the weight of responsibility – why let extremists dictate our travel? Why punish locals reliant on tourism? Kashmir is our country. We reasoned that security would be high after the incident. Without official directives to leave, we resolved to continue.
Back in India incident is identified as terror attack with more than 50 casualities Pakisthan backing it. India declared few restrictions against Pakisthan. Slowly war kind of situation building.
| Scenic Gulmarg |
Finally our luggage arrived, meticulously packed and delivered by the Welcome Resort staff! Profound relief washed over us. We decided to proceed, cautiously. We stopped at restaurant for lunch. Surprisingly they are offering food free as a good will gesture for tourists. They wanted good experience for tourists. They want us to feel good so that we tell good about kashmir and more tourists come. High quality food offered free. It was such a warm gesture put more weight on our shoulders to carry right message back home.
The drive to Gulmarg was stunningly beautiful, CRPF Vehicle escorted tourist vehicles all the way to the top. Arriving at Hotel Pine Spring around 4 PM, we made a spontaneous decision: the Gondola! Phase 2 access closed after 4 PM, but Phase 1 whisked us up into heavy snowfall and absolutely breathtaking views. We didnt think about Gondola till we reached there. Our hotel right next to the Gondola made us think about taking it. Some of us decided not to take it and just go back to hotel.
Gondola Ride was magical, but the return journey tested our endurance – over an hour waiting in the queue, freezing in the falling snow. Seeing so many other tourists persevering alongside us was heartening. We continued to receive calls from home/friends to come back home. My company colleagues continued to check whereabouts and offer help.
Back at the hotel, utterly drained by the cold, the wait, and the accumulated stress, a hot bath felt essential but left me exhausted. Evening plans vanished; after dinner, sleep came instantly.
Day 6: Onwards to Sonmarg - Lingering Shadows, Local Dialogues
Proceed to Sonmarg: The calls from concerned well-wishers continued. We started our journey to Sonmarg around 10 AM, energy levels still low. The drive, however, seemed restorative; perhaps the descent improved oxygen levels, lifting our spirits.
Just to check how locals are feeling now I opened topic of terror and Pakisthan involvement with driver. Conversations with our driver continued through out journey, revealing his deep skepticism of official narratives regarding the incident and broader politics. His point is warning Pakisthan doesnt help no one understand what Kashmir wants. We told India worries about Kashmir but he gave example his worries about Kashmiri students facing issues elsewhere, backed by videos he shared. Some stupid Hindu Raksha Dal guy giving warning to Kashmir students. Such an insensible statement. Felt very bad after seeing the video. We told , he doesn't represent us. He needs to be punished for telling such things. We as a nation shouldn't spare such stupid guys. Being a Hindu I don't think he is our representative. Such indelible guys need to go behind bars and if required ban organization all together. All these thoughts were running in my mind while trying to convince driver that “India is safe” for them.
Concerning reality: Hearing the driver maintain that 'Both India and Pakistan are not good for Kashmir' offered a difficult but important window into a local perspective shaped by vastly different experiences and, clearly, different information streams than ours. It was deeply concerning to think how easily people anywhere could be influenced – 'brainwashed' even – by hateful content like the video he showed us targeting Kashmiri students. My mind immediately went to the potential damage – how could people feel safe or feel India is home when faced with such vitriol? What if seeing such things made them treat visitors like us differently? It felt like fringe groups, supposedly like this 'Hindu Raksha Dal', far from protecting anyone, actually create more trouble and division. The thought solidified in my mind: it’s often not the religion that’s the problem, but the misguided or hateful individuals claiming to lead or represent it. Such leaders and the organizations spreading hate need to be disowned and held accountable; banning such content seems necessary. While these strong thoughts were swirling, it struck me how different this local reality felt compared to the alarming news people back home were apparently receiving, predicting war or communal attacks. Our actual experience, despite the recent major incident, was largely of welcoming, warm-hearted Kashmiri people, where basic safety didn't feel like the primary concern – the real poison seemed to be the deliberate spreading of fear and hatred
| View from my resort in Sonmarg |
With all engaging and thought provoking discussion, We arrived at the scenically located Hotel Badar Resort in Sonmarg around 3:30 PM, greeted by stunning glacier views from our balcony.
Revitalising fun indoors: Photos and reel-making ensued (thankfully, a dropped camera survived unharmed!). We had fun time dancing in the garden. This helped us to re-energize from the emotional roller-coaster
Pressure from home and friends continued "to come back". To add to confusion, another group residing told us that their operator got a message from the tour operator association to vacate all tourists before Apr 30th. They are vacating kashmir and going to simla. Also other countries issued travel advise not to visit kashmir because of possible war and social unrest.
That evening, during dinner, our group revisited the swirling rumors about needing to vacate Kashmir by April 30th. We collectively decided it was likely unfounded or misdirected information and reaffirmed our commitment to continue the planned itinerary.
Day 7: Sonmarg's Quiet Beauty, Poignant Encounters
A much-needed later start today (8 AM). After a leisurely breakfast, we visited Sonmarg town via the new tunnel road, admiring the majestic glaciers. We consciously chose a quieter day, skipping the optional pony rides or taxi excursions.
Instead, we walked, absorbing the atmosphere. The lack of tourists was stark. We were approached by local pony owners, their pleas for business reflecting their hardship. It was heartbreaking to decline, seeing their desperation. Offering money felt wrong, especially when one man proudly stated, "I don't need money. If you want to take pony let me know." We felt a deep sense of helplessness witnessing their struggle. Tourism is such a vital aspect for them to sustain. Unfortunately it will affect them. Now at least few tourists are continuing with 90% cancellations numbers will come down drastically. Rooms in the hotel left unoccupied. Season is going to be tough for them.
Later, after lunch back in town, some of us returned to the hotel while others embarked on a short, "fantastic" trek, finding solace in nature's grandeur.
Returning in the evening, the day left us with powerful, poignant images – the stunning landscape contrasted with the vulnerability of lives dependent on peace and tourism. The thought of their uncertain future is "heart-wrenching".
Seven days. It feels like a lifetime of experiences packed into one week. The beauty of Kashmir is undeniable, captivating. But our journey has been irrevocably shaped by the unexpected, the challenging, the human connections forged in moments of crisis and vulnerability. We carry on, more aware, perhaps more somber, but also more resilient, looking forward to what the final days of our Kashmir chronicle hold. We had a sound sleep at hotel, hoping for better tomorrow.
Day 8: Returning to Srinagar's Embrace - Gardens, Views, and Traditions
Leisure travel back to srinagar : After the scenic tranquility (and poignant encounters) of Sonmarg, today felt like a return to the familiar embrace of Srinagar, but with fresh eyes. We started Day 8 leisurely, waking around 8 AM and enjoying breakfast before beginning the drive back towards the city.
The journey itself offered moments to pause; we made a brief, pleasant stop by a riverbank, letting the kids enjoy some Maggi while we captured more photos of the beautiful riverside scenery.
Mughal garden: Our main destination upon reaching the Srinagar area was the famous Mughal Gardens, and we started with Nishant Garden. It truly lived up to its reputation as the "Garden of Pleasure" – meticulously laid out, green, and very beautiful.
The highlight here, especially for creating fun memories, was dressing up in traditional Kashmiri attire! We spent quite some time laughing and taking photos, feeling wonderfully festive and immersed in the local culture for a moment.
All that posing worked up an appetite, so we headed back to a now-familiar favourite – Nathu Sweets – for another nice lunch.
Elegant Shankaracharya temple: Fully refueled, we embarked on our visit to the ancient Shankaracharya Temple. Perched high on a hill, the journey involved an uphill drive followed by the climb of 240 steps. Reaching the top was rewarding; the views over Srinagar city and Dal Lake were absolutely stunning and panoramic. The temple itself, standing elegantly since possibly 300 BC, evoked a sense of awe – it's amazing to think how much history those stones have witnessed.
Evening shopping at srinagar: Feeling fulfilled after the temple visit, we returned to our Srinagar hotel (Namrose Resorts and Spa) in the evening. After a brief rest to recharge, we ventured out again for some shopping, enjoying the bustle before finally heading back to the hotel to relax and reflect on a day filled with gardens, history, stunning vistas, and a touch of local tradition.
Day 9: A Final Day Exploring Srinagar's Gems
With this being our last full day in Kashmir before flying out , we decided to soak in more of Srinagar city itself, deviating from the originally planned Doodhpathri excursion. It turned out to be a day of discovering different facets of this historic city.
We spent the day exploring various landmarks. We visited Badamwari Garden, enjoying its unique charm. We experienced the bustle of the famous city centre, Lal Chowk. Our Driver showed some places and proudly told that "this is the area where all religions live together peacefully. There is Gurudwara here, muslims go and visit. we don't distinguish people based on religion".
We passed through pratap gardens seeing India flag flying high in the middle of srinagar.
We journeyed up to Pari Mahal, admiring its distinctive architecture and the views it offered. A visit to Chashma Shahi, the Royal Spring, provided another lovely Mughal Garden experience, known for its refreshing spring water.
Beyond these specific spots, we also spent time simply roaming around parts of Old Srinagar, absorbing the atmosphere and getting a better feel for the city's pulse and history. It was a fitting way to spend our final day – getting to know Srinagar a little more intimately before bidding farewell.
Special thanks to our tour operator Nature wings and our tour drivers who took care of us
Concluding reflections (My thoughts based on the journey so far)
Conversations that stuck
- "Never in history has such an attack happened on tourists. It was always on armed forces or local militants."
- "Killing men in front of their families is atrocious."
- "This is the first time I have seen people coming forward for a candle march [regarding such an incident]."
- "I never saw people giving slogans against Pakistan before this."
- "India is the best country to live in. My brother called me to the US, but I am not leaving Kashmir."
- "This incident is most likely because of rival travel agencies or people who are unhappy seeing Kashmir tourism flourish. This has happened before, but they weren't successful last time."
- "Why was this area left unarmed when everything else has security?"
- "This is definitely a war between travel agencies."
- "Don't worry, as long as we are here, we will not let anything happen to you."
- "Both India and Pakistan are becoming heavy [burdensome] for Kashmir. Why are only we being targeted?"
- "Kashmiris will survive; we did during Corona. No one died because of hunger. Maybe we will eat less, but we distribute among ourselves."
- "You are our guests, We are here to create happy environment for you. Not the environment of fear. Have whatever you want here it is free for all tourists today."
- "Please continue your kashmir trip. Tell people back in India that you enjoyed the trip"
- "This is possibly a conflict between travel agencies or some local [issue]."
- "India doesn't listen to Kashmiris. They take decisions and ask us to sit quiet."
- "What will happen to the loan that I took for the cab?"
- Looking at his desparation to get daily bread when we offered money without pony ride -"I don't need free money. If you want to take pony let me know."
- "Don't worry, we are here to take care of you. You are our guests. Come to our house. Give us a chance to host you."
- "Feeling very, very bad for the kind of experience you got here in Pahalgam. My brother is there in Bangalore. We want you to say good things about Pahalgam back in Bangalore."
- "The entire tourism [sector] will be affected. We are going to lose our livelihood for a minimum of 2 years."
- "This shouldn't have happened. This is very bad."
- "India doesn't know what Kashmiris want. They don't let us talk."
- "I was thinking of expanding the cafe. I saw land in a village nearby. Now that plan is gone. I thought of generating employment here. It was possible until yesterday, not anymore."
- "This is not a good thing for Pahalgam or Kashmir. This is going to take us back by few years."
- "What will happen to all these local people? They will have to find alternatives."
- "People here will survive; maybe we will have to eat less, but they know how to survive."
- "Don't worry about dinner, accommodation, etc... we are all here [to help]."
- "Nothing will change by stopping water or sending Pakistani people back."
- "Both India and Pakistan are heavy on Kashmiris. They don't listen."
- "Kashmiri students are attacked in India. What did they do? See the video how that guy is asking all Kashmiris to vacate."
- "I have roamed around India; I came to attend a marriage in Vijayawada. We became friends with one tourist family, and they invited us."
- "Here we don't differentiate people based on religion. there is one Gurudwara here, muslims are the first to celebrate all festivals there, we are invited. Same case with mosques as well. Everyone live together"
Thoughts on moving forward
Resolving the 'Kashmir issue' feels incredibly complex, but based on my limited interactions and experiences, certain things seem crucial
- Integrate kashmiri with India.. this is going to be tricky and time taking. Abrogation of article 370 is a positive steps towards it but there are few more things to be done. They are like plain field, weeds are to be removed and to be cultivated to get fantastic result. People who know about India, wants to be part of it.
- Don't allow negative content flow. Kashmiri people are connected to each other by social media. Observe what is flowing as content and regulate. To let positivity flow. Media democracy doesn't work here.
- Schools, religious preaching needs to be monitored very closely. They should not teach negative perspective. Let people freely follow the religion but not freely teach whatever they want.
- Develop infrastructure , should see more Indians from other parts of India mixed with Kashmiris.
- Displace leaders spreading negative sentiment. Replace them with right ones.
- Take strict action against insensible comments. Don't let religious sentiment rule country. Make country first. Punish illogical statement from any religious leader (minority or majority doesnt matter)
- As citizens, we should think beyond political affiliation when it comes to national topics. Support what makes more sense for the nation. Leave political identities. Don't dig the past, stay in present. It shouldn't be like if something is done by the opposite party then you need to definitely condemn.
- Encourage Kashmir tourism by spreading the positive word. Whoever did attack, wanted to destroy ecosystem. so don't allow this to happen. Tourism is the only link between India and kashmir so with every attack we should make it more strong.